Tuesday, September 28, 2010

The Hawker’s U.S. Trip Blog - Story so far

After so many entries, I thought that I would do a summary, a kind of contents list. If you want to look up any earlier blog, just click on the relevant line.

THE PREPARATION

Friday 13 August - What have we forgotten?
Monday 16 August – The Plan
Monday 16 August – 3,464 miles in 4 weeks
Wednesday 18 August – Zen and the Art of Motorcycle Maintenance
Friday 20 August – Who is guarding the base camp?
Saturday 21 August – The Right Hand side of the U.S.A (The East)



SAN FRANCISCO AND THE DRIVING PART

Tuesday 24 August – We have arrived
Tuesday 24 August – We have a U.S. Mobile Phone
Thursday 26 August – Cycling over the Golden Gate Bridge
Friday 27 August - Now we are motoring
Tuesday 31 August – Our Beast of Burden
Thursday 2 September – Newport, then driving to Yellowstone
Saturday 4 September - Bison takes drunk driving test
Tuesday 7 September – We have left Yellowstone Park
Friday 10 September – Strange Motoring Customs
Saturday 11 September - Zion National Park and Bryce Canyon
Tuesday 14 September – Grand Canyon
Friday 17 September – What have the Hawkers been eating?
Saturday 18 September – From Grand Canyon to the Rocky Mountains
Monday 20 September - Hiking in the Rocky Mountains
Wednesday 22 September – Custer Park, Crazy Horse and Mount Rushmore

THE DRIVING IS OVER

Friday 24 September – The Driving is over – “Hard Rain is gonna fall”
Sunday 26 September – American Football
Tuesday 28 September - Minneapolis

That's all for now folks.

Minneapolis

We are with Denis and Kay Hauptly in Minneapolis, in the State of Minnesota. As well as looking after us like royalty, and taking us to American Football games (see earlier blog entry), they have been trying to raise our awareness of matters dramatic. How well they have succeeded you can judge or estimate for yourself, but given the definitely philistine inclination of the Hawkers in matters thespian, I think that they have made a pretty good start.

But first something for the diary. It has not been all Shakespeare and Arthur Miller.


Friday morning 24 September, saw on our Segways, doing a tour of the centre of Minneapolis. Having mastered (or at least sufficiently mastered) the art of the “Segway”, we were led across some of the bridges over the Mississippi River, which forms the centre piece if this great city. Actually, it is two cities, Minneapolis and St Paul (singular – no “s” please), separate and distinct, which look at each other from the two banks of this river, in friendly and cooperative rivalry.

In the afternoon, we went to a lecture on the life and music of Louis Armstrong, by Charlie at the local Lutheran Church. Without a stutter, and with huge humour and banter with the audience, he spoke with passion. So much so, that in nearly two hours, he only got from 1920 to 1929 (by which time Armstrong was 28). Such was the extent of his captivation of the audience, if he had spoken for another four hours, no one in the audience would have voluntarily moved. He will be coming back to continue where he left off. Perhaps we can listen in on a conference call at 06.00 Swiss time.

In the evening, Denis took us to see Tennessee Williams “The Glass Menagerie” at the Jungle Theatre. Denis’ first challenge was to raise my awareness above the level of “Die Hard 4”. But in this play, there are no good or bad guys to win and save the world. Just the gritty and emotionally draining stuff of a dysfunctional family. I am totally exhausted just thinking about it. Once you scroll through the adverts, here is a better précis and (very good) review of the performance.

http://blogs.citypages.com/dressingroom/2010/09/jungle_theaters_2.php


The next morning (Saturday), we visited the Guthrie Theatre. From the outside, described (with some ironic justification, and not by me) as the “World Headquarters for IKEA”, but inside, the most amazing mixture of galleries, (four) theatres, and views of the river and city. This is a “Must” for anyone visiting Minneapolis, even for cultural ignoramuses like me. The enthusiasm of our two guides (yes – two; not tour) and the explanation of how plays are developed and rehearsed was nearly sufficient for me to want to take this up as a second career. Reality will kick in soon.

As a final note of interest, for a short period, Denis was a professional actor. One of his dreams (ambition might be too strong a word) was to play the part of Shakespeare’s Hamlet. He had learnt the part completely. I will be including it in my list of retirement projects, the formation of our own international dramatic society, to support Denis in his dream and me, in my fantasy second career.

Any volunteers to join in this project? (Jim Barrington is down for Artistic Director)

Sunday, September 26, 2010

American Football

American readers can now switch off. You do not need to read this, as all this stuff is bread and butter to you. But to us Europeans, these are matters of deep mystery, in much the same way, I guess, as cricket puzzles non-Brits.

We have now “done” American Football, having been to see the local University football team, Minnesota University, known as the “Gophers”. Denis and Kay are season ticket holders. Kay gave up her seat, and Denis took us and Jim Barrington. What an experience.


Now you would think that you turn up, park the car and go in to the stadium. Oh foolish fellow. No. We start with “Tailgating”. This is not sitting on someone’s bumper on a motorway, but enjoying a Barbeque and a beer, at the back of your car, in the stadium parking lot, together with 1,000 or so other fans. For this, of course, you need to arrive 2 hours before kick-off. I bet you didn’t know all that. Fantastic. Who thinks this stuff up? (But don’t worry – it would probably be banned in England on Health and Safety grounds)


Then there is the band. Not any old band, but a 300+ person affair (I did not count them – you are welcome to try). They not only play at the start and half time, but keep up a constant level of musical activity throughout the game at levels of energy that defy description.



What you don’t know is that we have spent several weeks learning some of the basic rules, mostly from the Internet and friendly restaurant waiters. So you must “make 10 yards in 4 downs” and you get 6 points for a touchdown. This requires serious effort. Denis also gave us a summary in the parking lot, while we were tailgating and there was no end of useful hints on what was happening from the surrounding fans.

Oh yes – and the result. Well, being Ipswich Town Football club supporters we were well prepared for the outcome. Starting off as favourites, we lost to North Illinois 34 – 23. Oh dear. Plenty of unhappy fans. Denis suggested that I would be popular by suggesting that the coach should be fired. He was right! (Similarities with English soccer here). For those of you interested, here is a link to the match report, as seen from the viewpoint of North Illinois.

http://www.niuhuskies.com/sports/m-footbl/recaps/092610aab.html


A quick mention of timeouts. We had learnt about these (Each side is allowed to call three timeouts of a minute each, per half). What I had not realised was that Television also can call timeouts for Adverts. Guess where most of the timeouts came from. Timeouts, plus the fact that the clock stops when play stops, means that one hour’s play plus 20 minute halftime, results in 3 hours 30 minutes of entertainment. When the man in the red cap from the television steps on to the pitch, the game stops. Now that is power!!

Friday, September 24, 2010

The Driving is over – "Hard Rains are gonna fall"

It is Friday 24 September. We are in Minneapolis and the driving is over, at least for the time being. (We might hire a car when we are the Washington area). We have driven 5,600 miles, courtesy of National Car hire, who charged us the lowest amount ($250) for the privilege of dropping the car off at different point from where we collected it. In some cases, this privilege would have cost us an additional $1,000. After four weeks of great weather, yesterday saw 6 inches of rain deposited over the State of Minnesota, most of it while we were driving.

A bit of Bob Dylan seemed appropriate – watch the video and listen. The roads in the U.S. are big and long. Yessir. Big and long. Even Blanding, that small Mormon town in Utah had six lanes (if you count the emergency lane). They seem to be 100 yards wide and take forever to cross on foot. This is pretty unnerving, if you are not at a “ped xing” (see if you can work out what this is?” and the cars are coming towards you, even at a distance and at 25 mph.

Out here in the West or, as we Hawkers say, the “Left Hand side of the U.S.”, there is not much traffic on the interstates (“Motorways”). They are not bumper to bumper with Tesco lorries and petrol tankers. In fact, at times, you can have the whole motorway to yourself, as you calmly cruise through at 65 mph. The drivers seem to adhere, more or less, to the Interstate speed limits. None of this shooting past you, before you even realised that they were there. The speed limits vary from State to State, as they should in a proper democracy (I don’t think, though, that the Americans have a State by State referendum on the topic, so there is room for improvement here).

Most motorists stick to the speed limit. When he overtakes, he does so quite gradually. He is probably on cruise control anyway, and for a while he disappears from the rear view mirror in the side mirror, before pulling in front. It seems to takes forever.

A final word on the use of the Garmin (our GPS). I have managed to avoid having a Garmin. (..and why can’t people use maps – see http://colinhawker.blogspot.com/2010/06/exercise-car.html Since using the Garmin since we have been here , I have undergone something of a conversion (as predicted), but have subsequently had a partial relapse. It is perversely satisfying when something goes wrong that you always predicted. It was not much fun being diverted 80 miles, because Garmin had the wrong coordinates for a particular point of interest, but very satisfying.

Garmin definitely has problems dealing with Innercity motorways, when travelling at speed. I don’t think that it can keep up “Take the exit that you passed 0.2 miles ago” (well...not exactly, but you get the idea). If it does not recognise the road, then you have no chance, and it definitely has problems navigating in Northern Arizona. As I said, very satisfying. How immature of me!!

Wednesday, September 22, 2010

Custer Park, Crazy Horse and Mount Rushmore

Wednesday 22 September - Now we have just left the last stay on the motorised part of our grand sweep through the U.S. We stayed in Custer Park (as in “The Last Stand of General Custer”) for two nights and have spent today driving through South Dakota. How you can drive all day through one state beggars belief.


You will all be familiar with the scenes of Mount Rushmore and the heads of the four U.S. Presidents. (Can you name them? No points for George Washington). The photo was taken during the afternoon. We returned this morning on our way out of Custer Park to get a shot of the monument as the morning sun was shining on to it.


On Monday afternoon, we visited the “Crazy Horse” monument, which is less well known but just as impressive, if only for its audacity and the single mindedness of its message about the Native Indian people. Without federal or state funding, this monument is being built piece by piece, with no end date. (no budget; no time line; no resources – sounds like some of the projects that I used to run). And to give you a sense of dimensions, the completed face of Crazy horse, is as tall as the individual heads at Mount Rushmore.


Yesterday morning, we saw more Bison. Next week is the round up, after which they are herded together (cowboy film style, aided by pick-up trucks when there is trouble). Then the auctions bring the herd down to 950. Most of the auctioned off Bison go to other National Parks. (Did you know that these lumbering, sleepy animals – see my earlier video – can do 50 mph? – Cooo . If you are British and said “yes”, deduct 10 points for lying, except Frances, who probably knows about this sort of thing, who gets a bonus 10 points for sorting out problems with our cellar).

The highpoint was something much more low key. As we drove away from Custer Park, at 6.30 this morning, we had to stop constantly for the wild life that came up to the side of the road in the dawn, to feed. Birds, deer (no less than 6 encounters), wild turkeys, prairie dogs (like Marmuts, but lighter coloured) and chipmunks (all of them trying to throw themselves under the car, without success, I am pleased to say). One family of deer crossed the road in front of us, while we waited and then vaulted a four foot fence, without saying thank you.

Monday, September 20, 2010

Hiking in the Rocky Mountains

Monday 20 September. No slide show, this time, folks. Sorry. So you will just have to make do with a few photos in this blog.

Those of you who have been paying attention (Wake up, you at the back) will know that we have crossed the Rocky Mountains and stayed at Estes Park. 10 points if you have found this on the map. 20 points if you got someone else to do it for you.

What you will not know (unless your name is Joy or Mike McQuillen or Herb or Joyce Linne) is that the pass over which we drove was closed the next two days because of a (small) forest fire.

We have just had two great days with Mike and Joy in Fort Collins. Usual 7 star service that we are becoming accustomed to here, in this case, complete with slippers, hand crème and Skype calls laid on to my old colleagues David and Daniel McQuillen and the chance to be taken for a walk by their Golden Retriever, Sadie (I swear I outsprinted her once).


Saturday morning had two firsts. One was that this was the first day when the weather was gloomy the whole day. In fact, our rain jackets came out. Aaaahhhhhhh. Poor things. We can hardly complain after 26 days of sunshine. The other was that we had our full American Breakfast, complete with Eggs and Waffles. Hurrrraahhh.


Sunday saw all four of us back near Estes Park, together with Herb and Joyce Linne, for some hiking and more breathtaking views. At 10,000 feet, we were still hiking through the forest, stumbling across the odd lake or two, looking out over the odd peak or three in the distance, together with the odd duck or four, looking cute and trying to get you to share your sandwiches.


The descent down to our destination was full of the rich colours of early autumn. The temperature rose into the 80s (we are talking “Fahrenheit” here, of course) and all that was missing from the landscape were some vineyards.

I think that I speak for the party as a whole when I say that the U.S. parks commitment to peace and tranquillity is fantastic. No mobile phone signals (so no emails on Blackberries). A sense of danger from Bears and other wild life is a reminder that this Garden of Eden is still and always will be untamed. However, no coffee Pauses (stops) is taking this “Back to Nature” position a bit too far.

Thanks to Joy and Mike for their great hospitality.

Saturday, September 18, 2010

From the Grand Canyon to the Rocky Mountains - another slideshow (and too much to say)

You are going to need your maps for this one. We have had four days on the road and have reached Estes Park, 70 miles north-west of Denver. You might have thought that the driving is the tedious part between places. I did. Well, the driving and the constantly changing scenery is part of the experience, which is a good thing as we have now covered 4.200 miles (Or is it 5,200?). The Southern part of Utah has the most amazing scenery, with the red coloured rocks, hills, cliffs, and gorges and the Rocky Mountains are like the Alps, but different, if you know what I mean.

Now I am going to have to take this day by day, for my own benefit as much as for your information. I get easily confused. I have a slide show, so you can click here if you get bored with the narrative.
http://picasaweb.google.com/103404285149801869665/JourneyToTheRockyMountains#


(I will repeat this link at the end of this blog)


Monday 13th September – The drive through Northern Arizona is scrub, almost semi-desert, but half way through the day we reached the Navaho National monument for the Navaho Indian Tribe. The photo shows the dwellings carved out of the side of the cliffs. Later that day, the landscape was broken up by towers of rock, that had been left from the erosion of the surrounding rock. Late afternoon, we reached Monument Valley. This really was out of the old cowboy films (“Stagecoach, 1939, with John Wayne, in his first major successful role). We then stayed at Blanding in Utah, a Mormon town, a “dry” town, where alcohol cannot be sold in the town limits, but can be bought at a petrol station, exactly 3 miles outside.


Tuesday 14th – We stayed in the Blanding region. However, remember that “region” is a relative term, as the State of Utah is 50% larger than the United Kingdom. The main attraction of the day was the “Natural Bridges”. It had obviously been raining recently as the Cacti there had seedpods. We must have just missed them flowering. There was also an array of different plants with yellow flowers that seemed to thrive in these arid conditions.


Wednesday 15th – A drive through Arches National Park, full of rock formations with most bizarre shapes, many totally unprintable (who has the crude mind?). Glenwood Springs was our stopping point for the night, where Doc Holliday (remember Wyatt Earp and Doc Holliday) has a memorial, which we visited the following morning. He is buried at this cemetery, but it is not actually known exactly where.



Thursday 16th – Before reaching the Rocky Mountains, we shared the small valley carved out by the beginnings of the Colorado River and where the leaves on the Aspen trees are already turning yellow. We now crossed the Rocky Mountains at the highest paved point in the U.S.A. at 3,500 metres (12,700+ feet), which is the highest point that I have ever been (I have never skied at Zermatt). The views (and the wind) are breathtaking, but if you are driving, don’t take your eyes off the road, as in parts, there is only a couple of feet between the car and 1,000 foot drop (and no barrier).

We arrived in Estes Park to stay with Susanne and Thomas. Susanne is the daughter of Joan, one of Hazel’s bridge partners back in Zurich. They run a holiday motel in Estes Park and they put us up in one of their best rooms. I am not surprised that they have been fully booked for the whole of the season.
http://picasaweb.google.com/103404285149801869665/JourneyToTheRockyMountains#

Friday, September 17, 2010

What have the Hawkers been eating?

I know that you have all been very concerned about how well we are looking after ourselves. You will be pleased to know that we are doing pretty good (as my U.S. colleague from Deutsche Bank, Charlie Dwyer would say) or pretty well (as my Dad would say).

Of course, there has been plenty of sitting in the car, while we enjoy the incredible scenery that has been laid out for us. We have managed some hiking / walking on our own, with the promise of more hiking in the Rocky mountains with our friends, Mike and Joy McQuillen this weekend and later in Lake Superior in 8 days time.

Unexpectedly on the breakfast scene, we have yet to come across the “As much as you can eat for $5.95”, so that remains on the “To Do” list. We may settle this point with Waffle and Maple Sirup.

It will not surprise many of you to know that we have been mostly self-catering. Those skinflint Hawkers would not eat out every night, if they can save $20 a time. To help us out on this, we have discovered that almost everything here that needs to be cooked, can be cooked in a microwave. Add to this, the fact that most motel rooms have microwaves and “Bingo”. You can have a three course meal, two beers and a glass of wine, no grappa :-( for $16.35 (or something similar) for two people.

The motel rooms also have fridges. As well as keeping the beer and wine cold, all kinds of other useful goodies can be kept. Once you get on to this self-catering direction, you need butter, ham and salad and cold drinks for lunch (although you can buy a huge sandwich from “Subway”, enough for two people for $6.)

The boxes in our hire car now testify to the fact that we are a mobile kitchen. Clingfilm, salad dressing, paper cups, plastic cutlery and glasses, peanuts, Pringles, pitta bread, left over rolls (which can only be bought in packets of 8, as far as we can tell), half drunk bottles of wine, partially drunk bottle of Bourbon (40% proof; cost $6.95!!) etc are transported from place to place.

In building up this armoury of self sufficiency, we realised that our packing list was incomplete. A Swiss Army penknife would have been useful, so an equivalent U.S. model ($9.95) was purchased. How did we good Swiss people manage to forget that?!

We have bought a “Yellowstone” cold bag to transport the contents of the fridges and we bought a bottle opener, only to discover that there was one on the U.S. army knife and that it was not necessary anyway, as the bottles are all screwtops.

A Final note on the fridges. With the exception of the one at Estes Park (which was as quiet as a mouse), they are all designed to come on every 30 minutes, and make a noise like a lawn mower. My theory is that as most people have the air-conditioning on as well, no one notices. As we do not have the air-con on, and I can hear an ant breathe at 100 yards ....well, you have to write the last line yourself.

Tuesday, September 14, 2010

Grand Canyon

Today is Tuesday 14 September. I have to keep saying that as I am beginning to lose track of the days. I know that we are back in Utah, having left the Grand Canyon yesterday and are generally wandering in a north-westerly direction towards the Rocky Mountains and Fort Collins, which is about 75 miles north of Denver.

Although due south of Utah, the State of Arizona is one hour behind. This makes for interesting time calculations when you are moving along the State Boundary. (Arizona is in the same Time Zone as California).


There is not much to say about the Grand Canyon that has either not already been said or which you cannot already imagine from photographs that appear in magazines. It does not disappoint. It really is bigger than the gorge in Graubunden between Chur and Ilanz, known as the Swiss Grand Canyon. Actually it is mind-bogglingly huge. Boris Kraus told me this, but it really does have to be seen to be believed.


We spent half a day hiking along the South Rim, within yards of the edge of the 1 mile drop. The views are more varied than I had imagined, but had to stop when the midday sun simply became too hot.

The vegetation, although hardly tropical, is denser and greener than I had expected and goes right up to the edge of canyon. Imagine being a pioneering trekker, thinking that you are on your way westwards and then arriving at the gorge. Providing that you did not fall in, you would have to have believed that you had come to the end of the world.


In the early evening, we went to a popular viewing point and watched the sun going down. Later that night, I saw only the second shooting star that I have ever seen, the first one being in the Ticino region of Switzerland, earlier this year, while sitting on the balcony of the apartment of Bruno and Regina Engel. The stars are so clear. I think that if you had enough time, you could count all the stars in our galaxy, the Milky Way.

Saturday, September 11, 2010

Zion National Park and Bryce Canyon

It is Saturday 11 September. We have just finished three fantastic days in Springdale, on the edge of Zion National Park (Utah). The previous week, in one of those happy pieces of good fortune, we met an English couple who had been to Springdale on an earlier holiday.


We spent Wednesday and Friday exploring the main areas of Zion Valley, and doing some hiking. On the Thursday, we drove up to Bryce Canyon (about 80 miles away).

My knowledge of the geology and the forces that shaped this part of the world has grown by ....well, from nothing to being able to give the bluffer’s guide. The idiots guide to development of the Colorado Plateau (300 by 500 miles) is something along the lines that it was laid down by 150 million years ago, and then pushed up 1 mile or so, about 15 million years ago. The softness of the rocks and water, sun, frost, wind etc did the rest. While I do not think that this explanation will make it to Wikipedia or any other encyclopaedia, it is a passable summary.

Whatever the causes, the results are amazing. I have laid out some photos again in Picasa, which you can access on
http://picasaweb.google.com/103404285149801869665/ZionValleyAndBryceCanyon#

The slide show is the best way to look at these. Yellowstone Park is also on the Colorado Plateau, but the scenery is strikingly different (see earlier blog entry and related slide show).

After an earlier failure to photograph a chipmunk, I have now captured a short video (see the bottom) of what must be the boldest chipmunk in North America. Am I David Attenborough or what?

You will see that the walking in parts of Bryce Canyon was not good for people who do not have a head for heights, with vertical drops of 1,000 feet only a few feet away.

By the way, in case you were wondering, we have now arrived in Grand Canyon. No comment....yet.




Friday, September 10, 2010

Strange Motoring Customs

It was one of my good friends from the Credit Suisse days, Mike Qamar, who persuaded me that the only way to see the U.S. was by car. 3,200 miles and 18 days into our adventure, we have decided that it was good advice to follow. Here we are on the 3rd day of our stay in Zion Valley, with the journey to the Grand Canyon visit ahead of us tomorrow. It is a good opportunity to make some further observations on U.S. motoring customs, which are strange to us Brits.

I have got to grips with the four box junctions, where all have to stop and no one has priority. These are pretty smart. But I don’t think that the Brits would have the necessary patience or discipline to make this work properly. They would lock solid as soon as four cars arrived and all tried to go across at the same time.

A waiter in Salt Lake City explained the rule for turning right at a red traffic light (as well as explaining that you have four downs to make 10 yards in American Football). With a mixture of fear and trepidation, as well as excitement, I actually did this yesterday.

We have had our “Duel” moment on a highway. For those of you unfamiliar with films from the 1970s, Duel was Steven Spielberg’s first major film success. The helpless driver of a saloon car is pursued along a canyon by a truck for most of the movie, made all the more sinister by the fact that you never saw the truck driver.


The vehicles, of course, are enormous. We all know that. But I was not expecting mobile-caravans which are the size of Coaches (and towing Range Rovers behind them at the same time) or triple-articulated lorries. These are pretty scary, when they overtake you at 70.

The Americans also like to hoot their horns in car parks. I thought originally that it was because they were so pleased to arrive safely, having been pursued by a truck or overtaken by a giant motorised caravan. The real reason is that you click your automatic lock once to lock the car, and then again to make the car hoot at you to show yourself (and the whole neighbourhood) hat you have locked it. If your wife did not hear it, then you have to do it again, to show hear. If you are of a fidgety nature, like a smoker, restlessly flicking off non-existent ash off the end of his cigarette, you can do this 3 or 4 times, much to the appreciation of other motorists.

Being of an easily irritated and intolerant dispostion, even after nearly three weeks, I still find this ....well......irritating. Nevertheless, I think that it is something that other countries could build on, perhaps by having cars which play tunes, much like Ring-tones, when you did this. Perhaps we could download "hooting when parking" noises. My favourite would be the first line of “Land of Hope of Glory” or Beethoven’s fifth symphony.

On a final driving note, yesterday we took a 100 mile detour round some road works, on our way back from Bryce Canyon. We ended up driving through North Arizona as the sun was going down.

Tuesday, September 7, 2010

We have left Yellowstone Park

It is Monday evening, 6 September, as I write this.

We have arrived for an overnight stop in Salt Lake City, having driven 400 miles south from West Yellowstone. South Utah awaits, the State of Zion National Park, Bryce Canyon and of course, Grand Canyon (which is actually in Arizona – I am getting good with these U.S. States, aren’t I; I hope that you are impressed). To say more of this, would be to write next week’s entry.

We have just had three days in Yellowstone Park. It’s a bit bigger than Richmond Park. The drive today from the West Gate to the South Gate was about 80 miles. In all, I guess (without consulting Wikipedia), the park must be about 60 miles by 80 miles.

The weather for all three days has been great. Nearly completely clear blue skies, broken only by sleety snow (yes –snow, that white cold stuff) early yesterday evening as we drove back to our hotel. Today’s (Monday) morning sun was enough to melt the frost on the fir trees. Yellowstone Park is at 2,000 metres (7,000 feet). Snow in the summer is not unusual.

The scenery is so much more varied than we could have imagined.

Slow-winding rivers
Fir Tree covered mountains (surprising to us Swiss, given the altitude)
Frost on trees (well, what do you expect at a height equal to “La Sciala” in the Alps)
Vast Flat grasslands (called “Meadows”, ha ha)
Gurgling Mud Pools
Gushing Geysers – old Faithful is called this, as it goes off every 90 minutes
Gorges
Waterfalls
Bison – we hope you enjoyed the earlier video (if not, see blog on “Bison fails drunk driving test”)
We still have not seen a bear (see the warning notice on the slide show to follow)

When walking on Sunday, we heard a very large crack – a tree had fallen across the path. We decided that the trees were more dangerous than the Bears, but the Bison are cuddly. The Park Rangers would not let me take one home.

This link takes you to some photos, showing each of these. Go to the slide show, which should take you through part of the rich panorama that we experienced. You have to guess which photos belong to which subject that I have just described. It should not be too hard.

http://picasaweb.google.com/103404285149801869665/TheHawkersInYellowstonePark#

Saturday, September 4, 2010

Bison takes Drunk Driving Test

We have had two days in Yellowstone Park. We are ticking off the list of creatures to be seen.

Chipmunk (seen, but too fast to be photos)
Elk
Wolves
Bisons
Squirrels

Unfortunately, the bears have stayed away. Given the health warnings, this is probably a good thing. We were recommended to spend $50 on a mini fire-extinguisher, to be available at all times, to be squirted into the eyes of an oncoming bear.

But the Bisons have been present in their droves (herds, actually). They are also freqently found on the roads themselves, seeing if they can walk OK down the centre of the road. See the video for the proof.


Thursday, September 2, 2010

Newport, then Driving to the Yellowstone

It is Thursday 2 September. We have arrived at Yellowstone Park – West Yellowstone, to be precise. It has needed 970 miles and two days of driving from Newport, Oregon, on the Pacific Ocean to get here. It is not just the distance, but the speed limits, sometimes as low as 55 mph, rigorously observed. But there is no hurry. The unfolding and varied scenery was a wonder to behold.

Before we set off inland, we had two great days with Norman and Teresa. Naturally, Norman and I went to the local bar (7 miles away) to sample the Newport “Rogue” beer (designed to put hairs on your chest), and to catch up on 10 years of gossip.


On Monday, we shouted at the Sea Lions in Bay front, who attempted to drown out all conversation. We took Norman to see his own local Lighthouse and in the afternoon, Teresa and Norman took us on a drive up the shoreline to paddle in the Pacific (my feet will testify to the fact that 10 degrees is very cold indeed), followed by our first U.S. Burger and Chips!! (I have yet to do the full as much as you can eat Breakfast).

Other highlights include Norman teaching us how to “Wii” (A way of playing Computer Game for the uninitiated). Any chance that this will lead to us buying one? I don’t think so, but at least I will be able to play Jason at Golf, next time that I see him.

We waved goodbye to Norman and Teresa at 8.00 am yesterday (Wednesday) and started our intrepid journey. An unexpected detour led us through part of the Historic Route along the Columbia River, to see the second tallest waterfall in the U.S. (and get soaked in pouring rain in the process).

The Garmin GPS was an unexpected triumph, guiding us directly to our selected motel in Boise (which you will know is the capital of Idaho – shame on you). (I am almost converted to the Garmin now, but then you knew this would happen, didn’t you – It is all Jim Barrington’s fault).

Today’s run in to West Yellowstone was uneventful. We are checked in, have mounted a brief recce. Tomorrow we start the tour of Yellowstone Park. It is almost too much to take in.

Norman and Teresa – thanks again for making us so welcome in your home.