Our Beast of Burden

Captain’s log – date: Tuesday 31 August.

You are thinking to yourselves „If the Hawkers are driving in the U.S, how are they doing this?” Let me put you out of your misery. We have hired a car. But then you knew that, didn’t you.


Here is our car. A nice white little number. Exactly what we need.

I have not quite worked out how to operate all the various automatic little gizmos. It took me some time to realise that pressing top button twice, the horn beeped twice. I can now open the boot, but the opening of the back-doors is done by pressing the middle button at random.

Filling up with petrol is a challenge. I am not sure how many gallons the car takes, but I think that it is about 20 – 25. I am not even sure whether the gallon is really a gallon or is it something different. You have to prepay, which is easy to get used to and in Oregon, the car is filled up for you by a pump attendant (I think that this is a matter of State Law, but implemented without a referendum)

Driving on the right is not too hard for us Swiss people. The speed limits change every few hundred yards, which is hard. I am still waiting for the sound of the police sirens behind me.

My observation on the West Coast is that drivers take their safety duties seriously. American pedestrians (at least in Oregon) are safe in knowledge that drivers must stop at the designated points. In fact, here in Newport, the pedestrians have right of way almost everywhere.

I have been pretty well prepared (so far) for most things that we have encountered. However, I have still staggered by the size of some of the RVs (Recreational Vehicles). These are the size of large coaches, and in many cases, even tow their own saloon cars, so that the owners can drive to the local supermarket, once they have pitched their .....um......coach.

We have been inspired for our next (as yet unplanned) journey by seeing an Austrian couple, who have just completed 11 months driving up from South America in their own Austrian Registered campervan. They plan to park the vehicle for a few months, and fly back to Austria to visit home, before resuming next summer. Now that is a brave way to organise a Global Tour.

Now we are motoring

Friday morning saw us up at the crack of dawn, and standing at the doorstep of "National" at 07.45, ready to collect our hire car, and then to embark on phase 2 of our epic journey. National were ready for us to and by 08.10, we were on our way and by 08.30, having filled up with petrol, we were (sort of) lost, trying to find our way on the Golden Gate bridge. They don't allow cars on to the cycle lane.

Filling up with petrol was a "learning" experience. It took three visits to the reception to get me familiar with the way this is done, by which time, the receptionist and I had become good friends.

Having negotiated our way out of San Francisco, we drove to Sonoma and through the Sonoma valley, with the largest vineyards that I have ever seen. Truly impressive.

From there to Bodega Bay, where Alfred Hitchcock filmed "The Birds" in 1961. He chose a very beautiful spot for this; not at all sinister. At the Bodega Bay Head, we had a first real view of the Pacific Ocean. Very windy. Gusts up to 40 mph were enough to batter the birds of prey, who were looking out for English tourists, who might lose their footing.

From there, a lovely winding drive up to Fort Bragg, with the views of the Pacific on our left the whole way.

Today was the first trial for the Garmin (I would never use a) GPS. Main lesson is that you should never allow two people to navigate at the same time. In the event of a dispute, switch the GPS off.

Saturday morning and we are sailing (metaphorically speaking) up the coast road, and then inland through the lovely "Avenue of the Giants", in this case, the Giant Redwood trees. Some of them are over 2,000 years old and stand over 350 feet tall.


Back on to the coastal road and then to Crescent City, where we are staying this evening. Fantastic views of the sun, setting over the Pacific Ocean. That's me, standing next to the lighthouse.

Two lovely days driving. On this stretch at least, very few other drivers which is an unusual experience. Sounds like famous last words.

Cycling over the Golden Gate Bridge

Well now we have been busy tourists. On Tuesday evening, we had a walk through China Town, before settling on Fish and Chips up by the Fisherman’s Wharf, while looking over a colony of Sea Lions.

Yesterday, we visited Alcatraz, home for a period to some of America’s most notorious criminals, including Al Capone. During the course of the day, we realised that the famous San Francisco Cable Car is scenic, but slow. The regular bus is better if you actually want to get somewhere. Having been a user of the London Underground as a commuter for over 20 years, I was well prepared for this. Going through China Town is a very social experience, if you like being really cosy with people that you have never met before.


Today, we hired bikes for the day and cycled over the Golden Gate Bridge. Spectacular views from a magnificent bridge. I am convinced that where the Americans are faced by a physical obstacle, no matter how wide, they just build a bridge – well, what else would you do? By comparison, faced with mountains, the Swiss build tunnels. Same principle. Shortest distance between points is a straight line.

Having finished the bike ride at Tiburon, we took the 45 minute ferry back over the San Francisco bay. Just before catching the ferry, we had the unique experience of being refused service at a restaurant (“genuine Mexican cuisine”) because we used the wrong door. But this only stands out by way of contrast to the fantastic hospitality and friendliness with which we are otherwise received.

We had not realised until recently that the weather in San Francisco is generally pretty cool. This year, they have recorded their coldest summer for 70 years. But this way only until we arrived. On Tuesday, the temperature was 95 (35C), and yesterday cooler at 75 (25C). Today was cooler still, starting out at 55 (15C) brrrhhh, but the sun came out later, so I have a red nose. I should know better by now.

One other striking point. The hills of San Francsisco really are as steep as they look in the films. Thalwil is positively part of flatlands compared to this. I could do some serious training for a mountain marathon here.

Tomorrow morning (Friday), we are off northwards (that’s up) for a couple of days, planning to arrive on Sunday, in Newport, Oregon, to meet up with my old friend, Norman Austin.

We have a U.S. Mobile Phone number

We have not been very good little tourists today, on day 1 (Tuesday). Just some gentle orientation and essential shopping. Visit Number 1 was to purchase a three day pass to the local public transport, followed by the tourist information office.

On a walk down “Market Street”, we bought a U.S. mobile phone SIM card. We can now be contacted on +1 415 690 0396. Now you can phone or text us, without us having to pay foreign roaming charges. But please remember that we are 9 hours behind you (8 hours, if you are in England).

Directly over the road, we bought a Garmin, a SAT NAV. Yes, folks, after all our earlier protestations about “Why can’t they read maps?” even we have one. “Well, we are driving in a foreign country”, will, no doubt, give way to the Hawkers being unable to go to the local shops in Thalwil without one. Anyway, it will help Jim Barrington and me to compare cycling statistics.

After the shopping frenzy, on to our first ride on the local tram system up to Fisherman’s Wharf for a walk and a Clam Chowder soup (local speciality) for lunch and then a ride in the famous San Francisco Cable car.


After the coldest summer in San Francisco for 70+ years, it is now in the top 80s, if not 90s. It is a scorcher. Suits us, just at the moment, as we recover our energy after yesterday’s journey and an unprovoked assault by a carton of Tomato Juice.

We have arrived

We have arrived. After a surprisingly good nights sleep, it is now 4.00 in the afternoon your time and we are having breakfast at the Beresford Hotel in Downtown San Francisco. It seems strange not having to ask people if they speak English.

An unhurried and straightforward trip yesterday, the only exception being, having the entire contents of a carton of tomato juice emptied on me 30 minutes into our flight.

Apart from that, the flight was smooth (with more leg room and space than we had expected), the exit at U.S. customs was friendly. The shuttle ride into San Fransisco was shared with 7 other travellers, and the friendly driver, who negotioated his way through the rush hour traffic to deliver us safely at the doors of our hotel.

After a short walk, we had a drink and something to eat at Union Square. Photos to follow. Then bed (at 6.00 in the morning boday time).

Now it's off to the tourist information and here we go........

The Right Hand side of the U.S.A (The East)

I know that I said that yesterday's entry was the last one before we really got going. But Alison, my oldest daughter, persuaded me that I should say something about the last four weeks of our trip. The left hand bit was great (that's the West). The two weeks in Minnesota and Lake Superior, with a game of American Football included, sounds fantastic. But my fans, my loving and devoted audience, want it all. They are expecting it. They are hanging with eager anticiption.

So here it is.


This map is not as eloquent as the earlier one. Seems to be a great deal of doubling back, so let me expand.

We will fly from Minneapolis to Baltimore on 7th October. For those of you who do not know your geography (like me), this is 50 miles or so North-West of Washington DC (That is up a bit, and then right). We will use this as a base to visit the Gettysburg Centre, which explains and reflects on this terrible battle in the American Civil War. (I visited this as a teenager, with my family in 1968).

From Baltimore, we will move to Washington DC, and spend a few days. How many? - who knows. From there to Boston (by currently unknown and undecided travel means - train seems to be the current favourite), and of course from there to New York.

Arrival back in Zurich on 28 October.

There you have it. 9 weeks to learn and see as much as we can about this country with its 3.8 million square miles and over 300 million people. We will have to start thinking soon about the next visit.

Who is guarding the base camp?

Now I know that you are all very worried by the vexed question of who is going to look after our apartment when we leave for the U.S. You will be pleased to know that it will be in the capable and safe hands of my co-mini-triathlete, Richard Reinke.

He is the fine looking chap on the left (as you look at the picture).

It is complicated taking over someone else's apartment. There is so much to learn. Where is everything? How does all this stuff work? How can you tell the difference between the fridge and door to the pantry? The induction cooker alone requires a three day residential course.....and we have not even reached recycling yet. It is enough to drive anyone insane and I should know.

The really sad news is that Frances and Gizzy, the fierce, bold and highly computer literate guard dog, are going back to England, where Richard will join them at the end of the year. Double sad news. We will miss them all.

Zen and the Art of Motorcycle Maintenance

In the late 1980s, WH Smiths (For non-Brits, this is an English retail book and stationery chain) and the Times Newspaper produced the top 100 classic books the 20th century. (I still have the list, if you are interested). Hazel had read 80+ of them and I had read 3 (I think). One of those that I had not read was "Zen and the Art of Motorcycle Maintenance".

My son, Edward, decided recently that my cultural development was not a lost cause and lent it to me.

http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Zen_and_the_Art_of_Motorcycle_Maintenance

What, you may ask, has this to do with a blog on our U.S. trip. The book describes a 17 day journey by motorbike from Minnesota to California, punctuated by numerous philisophical discourses.

Now that my knowledge of the left hand side of the U.S. (The West) has increased 500% in the past two months, I know where both these places are and the journey is (more or less) our first four weeks, but in reverse.

But then Edward knew this, when he lent me the book, I think.

So far I have reached page 130 in the book, by which time, the motorcycle party has reached Yellowstone Park.

Exciting, isn't it.



(You will be relieved to know that I have now read over 70 of the Smiths/Times top 100 books.)

3,464 miles in 4 weeks

In the last blog, you were all made to work hard with your maps and compasses. I hope it was not too tough. But to make life slightly easier for you, here is a rough and ready chart of our planned travels, at least for the first four weeks, until we arrive in Minneapolis.

Gmap says that this is 3, 464 miles, so I was right when I said that it is a lot of driving. (Ed - can you calculate my carbon footprint from this, for a Chevrolet Monte Carlo).

The Plan!

Like all good projects, this trip has a plan. Like all plans, it probably will not happen exactly like this, but it gives the appearance that we know what we are doing. So get out your maps of the U.S.A and here it is. I’ve have given you some clues, by the occasional use of words like North, East etc.

As you will see, this is a mixture of sight seeing, hiking, driving (a lot of driving) and meeting up with old friends.

August
Monday, 23rd - Arrive in San Francisco
Friday, 27th - 29th - Drive north and arrive in Newport, Oregon to stay with Norman and Teresa Austin.

September
Wednesday, 1st, 2nd - Drive East to West Yellowstone and spend a few days there.
Tuesday 7th - Arrive in the Bryce Canyon Area (having stopped on the way at Salt Lake City)
Thursdayish or Fridayish (9th, 10th) - Arrive in the Grand Canyon area

When we have been there for a few days, drive in a vaguely North East direction towards Denver.

Friday 17th - Arrive in Fort Collins (about 70 miles North of Denver) to meet up with Joy and Mike McQuillen (Dave McQuillen’s mum and dad)

Monday 20th - travel generally Northwards to Badlands and Mount Rushmore, before heading east to Minnesota and stay with Kay and Dennis.

Thursday 23rd - arrive in Minnesota: We spend about two weeks in this region, including one week hiking along the Lake Superior trail with old friends, watching the Twin Cities Marathon and then staying with Hazel’s housemate, Heather, from Sierra Leone from 30 years ago.

October
Wednesday 6th - Now it is even vaguer. Leave for Washington DC. A few days here, before heading off to New York. If we have time, we will go via Boston. In New York, we will meet up with Jim, another of Hazel’s friends from Sierra Leone and then with Natalie and Wayne, who used to live in Zurich.

Thursday 28th – Step back on the plane back at JFK to Zurich.

There it is folks. I will do my best to keep our progress up to date on the blog, and if I fail, I will blame the weather and British Rail.

What have we forgotten?

Well, we are nearly ready. We are now in "What have we forgotten?" mode.

New driving licences in a form that will be recognised in the U.S. are now on their way to us. We would have collected some U.S. dollars, except that I forgot that the Thalwil branch of Credit Suisse closes between 12.00 and 13.30 for lunch.

Monday, 23 August will see us up at the crack of dawn, that is, if we have managed to sleep at all. The flight to San Francisco is not scheduled to leave until 13.15, but having allowed for check-in, delays in the train (unthinkable), being ready to leave Thalwil early, our estimated time of arrival at the airport is about 10.00. (How many Sudoku puzzles can you do in 3 hours?)

The overall campaign plan is set. The map has been on the wall for two months now, and the yellow stickers are beginning to turn up at the edges.